![]() But you can clearly see the inspiration for my template. ![]() The shape itself is a little different, I have more dome in my deck, and thinner rails, tail, and nose. But my blank wouldn't accomodate the width, especially in the tail, so I had to pull it in a little. I liked the plan shape of Randy Stoker's boards. I love this board, and a few others who have ridden have loved it too.Ī third example is this 7-6 square tail I made, another good performing shape. An internet friend in Florida gave me some pointers on the rails and v-bottom in the tail. I drew my template as per above, not an exact copy, but my interpretation. ![]() I studied pics of longboards, but especially Cooperfish longboards, as I really like Gene's work. Here's another example, and the first all foam board I ever made. Not an exact replica, but currently my favorite board. Shaped it using my mental notes from his pics, and a few of my own little tweaks. Then I drew my sketch on graph paper, scaled it up on masonite, and cut my template. I studied Ace's pictures, template, rails, bottom, anything I could glean from the pics. Ace not only talks the talk, but he walks the walk and generously posts the pics to prove it, gotta love him for that. Ace posted some pics of this awesome looking glider, 9-6, I love Ace's work, and this board especially. I just study the picture, draw the desired shape to scale (1 inch on paper = 1 foot on the real board) on grid paper with 1/4" squares, then draw a 3" grid on masonite, reproduce the drawing at full size - I used to bend sticks and fishing poles etc, but I finally realized freehand will get you close enough, leave a little excess and the fine tuning is done with sanding block after the template is cut out.īasically you end up with the shape you want to make, based on the image of the board you like, rather than an exact copy (I prefer to build the board as I see it in my mind's eye).
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